A list of problems

[cetane]

This is my setup:
'01 ITR (5000 miles)
JRSC
8psi pully
JR BTC (8 clicks for safty right now)
JR FPR
RC 310's
Stock fuel pump
Crower cams
Skunk2 cam gears
Comptech Ice box and filter
JR A/F, Boost, in car Fuel pressure(short sweep) gauges in an autometer dash bezel
Timing is 10? BTDC
All right here's the problems:

1. when I start the car, the A/F meter is pegged to the last green. When it warms up it stays at the 3rd green. It no longer bounces back and forth. AT WOT it is 2 lights green. sometimes when I stomp the throttle from crusing it goes lean for a milla sec then 2 greens.

2. Running real rich, car throwes a code 45. I back out the allen screw but the pressure doesn't change. It seems to only affect the WOT pressure. This also happens (throwing a code 45) after a hard run under WOT.

3. Sometimes when starting from a light, under normal driving, the car boggs and then takes off. A few times I had to feather the throttle to get the car moving. Is it REAL rich at idle (and loaded up)? It only happenes maybe once a day.

4. Pass 6500 rpm the car loses power, its still pulling but not nearly as hard.

5. The car is still at normal operating temp after being turned off for 2 hours. And after I run it I can't even touch the valve cover, Its so hot. would a colder thremostat work here?

6. I have a fuckin rattle from under the car in the front while slowing the car down at 4000 rpm. Its not the heat shields, I checked. When its real hot the rattle is worse.

7. My girlfriend says my gauges look stupid

Thanx guys

[INTEGRA LSSC]

what's your idle,base,and wot fuel pressures?

[TrustGs-R]

7)Cannot be helped...varies amongst applications....doesn't happen in mine.

when these scenarios occur...do you throw any CEL or have any currently on? Sounds a bit like limp mode...lol

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96 gsr hitting 12s
90 hybrid hatch hitting 14s

[cetane]

Idle 32
base 37 with out vac on
WOT 68

[This message has been edited by cetane (edited May 01, 2001).]

[TrustGs-R]

5)get a water temp gauge...make observations.
a cooler thermo would help some..switching those fans on sooner.

6)i have one too...not sure what it is yet...still searching...mine's not detonation....make sure yours isn't either.

4)i heard that jrsc ITR's tend to lose power on the high end...don't know why. ask around the ITR guys on this one.

3)rich bog....questioni is...why are you running so rich with a stock pump. injectors perhaps?

2)is your code 45 still there? always there?

1)what's your fuel pressure at? idle/0 vacuum/wot?


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96 gsr hitting 12s
90 hybrid hatch hitting 14s

[cetane]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TrustGs-R:
7)Cannot be helped...varies amongst applications....doesn't happen in mine.

when these scenarios occur...do you throw any CEL or have any currently on? Sounds a bit like limp mode...lol

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

i guess # 7 can't be tuned out so I have to deal with it as is. I don't get any codes when it happens but after a wile I get one. at every code 45 I was turning the JR FPR pressure down (counterclockwise)1 full turn and trying it again. After a full throttle run I would throw a code 45 in about an hour

[waveoff]

I'd be willing to bet that number six is either a rattling a-pipe or a rattling cat. Pull the cat off and shake it around and look through it with a flashlight. I didn't see a header listed in your setup so I'm assuming that your exhaust manifold is stock. If it is, then the rattling a-pipe can be fixed either by cutting a hole in each pipe to get access the the inside pipe or by getting a header.

------------------
Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph

[Batoutahell]

Even though you were able to lower your static fuel pressure to 37 (I'm guessing you ditched JR's walbro pump), it sounds like you're still running rich. Definitely get a v-afc or fuel management system to lean out, especially the top end.

You base timing is at 10, and your BTC is 8 clicks? At full boost, your timing would theoretically be 3.5 degrees. Why are you set at 10 degrees? Do you get too much detonation at near-stock timing?

[Jlude]

ITR006,
I think I recall you saying you were having the same issue(#4) as he was. Did the VAFC solve your problems?

I have access to a wide band o2 dyno. Is it probable that I can tune and find 200 WHP on stock boost with JRSC, V-AFCF and I/H/E.

[00ITR006]

number 4, is definetly running to rich.. mine did the same thing, you ecu is dumping fuel in your engine, and those 310's aren't helping especially with no fuel controller to adjust things..... lets just say. i have a vafc, and i had to take out up to 9%-13% between 7200RPM's and 8400RPMS's,,, you should invest in a fuel controller or a piggyback ecu of some sort,,,,

Also running 10degrees with the btc isn't helping either, i suggest you get on a dyno very shortly, and start advancing that timing and burn some of that fuel.. Bottom line, you need tuning desperately.

[This message has been edited by 00ITR006 (edited May 01, 2001).]